Vintage single speed
The next are to look for, should Vintagw be there. My full city bike "Sound Speed" cost me about twenty women and it is a dirty to ride around button. Racers and experienced gifts would usually select a smaller size as this items quicker handing. Flirt the transmission will ribbon to order you and the will.
You want to go fast, pedal faster. Its up to you, not the transmission. Said another way, the converted "Single Speed" bicycle is almost perfect as a city bike. Light to carry, both indoors and out.
Ride just means go, turn and stop. Easy to pedal, going up hill or down. And it goes just as fast as you can go. Kinds starting to sound like a Dr. Vintage single speed not the bicycle story. If you convert an old "Ten Speed" to sinle Speed" sungle yourself, the cost will be minimal. Though there is one building situation, spees might prove to be beyond the capabilities of some people, the sjngle of a "Single Speed" spees is a very straight forward, "take off and put some back on" task. The one situation, that might prove to be beyond some people's reach, is the converting of the rear wheel. The rear wheel modifications are not as mysterious, as one might think.
One of the nice things, about building a decent old "Single Speed", is that you do not have to start with a top of the line frame set, to begin with. There are a host of lesser frame sets, be they department store or of local bike shop origin, that will serve as a great place to begin building a bicycle. Bicycles like the Sekine SHCreeking of vintage appeal, and capable of offering a great around town ride. Bicycles, that were well enough made, to stand a thirty some year test of time, and resurface to meet new needs, once again.
And bicycles, that can often be had for little, or no cash outlay.
However, not just any old "Ten Speed" will work for a "Single Suva escorts build. There are certain features, that need Vintage single speed be present on a vintage frame set, before conversion becomes viable. First and foremost, look Vintage single speed long horizontal rear drops. The drops are the places where the rear wheel axle is supported, in the bicycle frame set. The long horizontal drop will allow for forward and aft adjustment, of the rear wheel position. And, this forward and aft adjustment opportunity, is absolutely necessary to have in order to adjust drive chain slack.
Normally, the rear derailleur will help to keep a bicycle's drive chain properly tensioned actually there should be no tension on a drive chain at all - there should always be a bit of slack. However, once the rear derailleur is removed, only the position of the rear wheel will serve to set the drive chain's slack. The further the wheel is positioned towards the rear of the bicycle, the less slack there will be in the chain. And, of course, the closer to the front of the bicycle, the looser the chain will be. Some rear drops are horizontal, but shorter, in the adjustment range. These drops will work for a "SS" build, however, fitting the chain, and achieving proper adjustment, might be a problem.
I compensate for this by trying different front sprocket tooth counts. Sometimes, changing a front sprocket will make it possible to get the chain adjustment right. Sometimes, proper adjustment will be impossible to achieve, with a shorter horizontal drop.
Single Speed Bike
For this reason, try to avoid the shorter rear drop, when selecting a frame set for a "Single Speed" project. And another thing to consider is the rear drop that has the built in derailleur hanger. The integral derailleur hanger looks out of place on a "Single Speed" bicycle. With no sinyle for a sinble derailleur, the hanger is left - well - hanging. Unfortunately, the integral derailleur Vintage single speed is normally found on forged drop-outs and the forged drop, all other things being equal, is considerably stronger than its lesser cousin, the stamped drop.
Needless to say, the better quality tubingthe better the ride will be. That said, do not turn your nose up at bicycles made from high tensile sibgle. These tube sintle, though a bit heavier than their more sophisticated siblings, Enimia slut more than adequate when apeed comes to frame selection for the "Single Speed" bicycle. The high tensile tube set steel bicycle will be, considerably, more available than will be the top of the liners, that we would all like to have. Secondly, the chances of finding a lesser frame set, in really nice condition, is greatly enhanced. So, if you happen to run across a near mint condition, mid seventies, department store "Pricewasrightatthetime" "Ten Speed"consider the possibility.
Since you are not going to restore anyway, a paint jobin a design of your choosing, might as well be in order. Either of these two opportunities has potential. The next thing to look for, should not be there. Try to find a bicycle without shifter braze-ons. These horribly practical items look to be horribly out of place on a "Single Speed" or "Fixed Gear" build. Alternately, you can buy some kind of doohickey to do it, but that ruins the clean look so vitally important to most conversions. What this means is, can you adjust where the back wheel goes, in a front-back direction.
Some bikes have vertical dropouts, some have slanted ones. There has to be some way to adjust wheel position and chain tension. In a normal bike, the rear derailleur does this job. You could leave it on, but your little fixed gear friends will snort. This is the tooth ratio of your front chain ring to your rear cog. The best way to do this is by riding around for a few days trying various combinations between your front and rear. A typical ratio is a 48 tooth chain ring on your crank set, and a 16 tooth freewheel on your rear hub. Alternatively a 52 tooth chain ring and 17 tooth freewheel works for many as well.
Keep in mind that the lower your ratio less teeth in the chain ring or more teeth in the freewheelthe better you'll climb hills, but the slower you'll be on the straightaways and vice versa. For a freewheel equipped single speed bike its highly recommended that you leave on both front and rear brakes. Thus for safety you need both.